PENANG, MALAYSIA, February 12, 2009: Colorful, extravagantly decorated kavadis dance to the loud music coming from the gaily-coloured stalls where crowds gather for free lunch and drinks. In the background someone yells “She’s in a trance!” Others recite prayers, chanting “vel vel!” and “haro-hara!” Everyone’s having a good time. And with piety at that. It’s Thaipusam in Penang.
Unlike the more famous event in Batu Caves known for its huge crowds, Thaipusam in Penang is an amazing spectacle of hues – the kavadis are elaborately decorated, the thaneer panthal (drink stalls) are each a work of art. Even the road to the temple is painted with floral designs.
Thaipusam is all about kavadis. Legend has it that Idumban, an ardent follower of the Lord Muruga, once decided he wanted to bathe the murthi of the Lord in milk. Murugan inhabits hillocks, in this case the hill of Palani. So Idumban slung two pots of milk on a piece of wood and carried them up the hill across his shoulders. Thus, the paal kavadi was born.
Idumban was given a place of honour in Murugan worship. He has his temple at the base of the hillock while Murugan rules the hilltop. For a kavadi bearer, the process begins long before Thaipusam with the fasting – or in most cases – the abstinence period. Some start days before Thaipusam, some weeks. (For the rest of this engaging account on Thaipusam, click on the link above.)