ALLAHABAD, INDIA, January 15, 2007: Long before the sun’s first rays dawned, millions of Hindus on Monday started making their way to Sangam, the holy confluence of three rivers, for the much-awaited ‘shahi snan’ (royal bath) at the Ardh Kumbh festival. Tens of thousands of pilgrims looked on with folded hands at Naga sadhus, the first to take the holy dip, as they went past in long, colourful processions with a band in attendance. Apart from the saffron-clad hermits, the naked Naga sadhus also raised their hands to bless the devotees who had waited for hours to have a glimpse of what is believed to be the royal entourage of the Gods. According to belief, the dip in the confluence, of the Ganga, Yamuna and the now invisible Saraswati, will not only wash away one’s sins, but also help achieve the ultimate goal of divine salvation. “Nearly two million had bathed until 10 am on this extended period of the popular ‘Makar Sankranti’ festival,” a local official said, adding that about five million were expected to converge by the end of the day.
But the day belonged more to the privileged and highly revered ‘akharas’ (Hindu monastic orders) of which the Naga sadhus form the most prominent and integral part. The first to march out of their camp were sadhus of the Maha Nirvani Akhara who arrived at Sangam at exactly 6.15 am and strictly adhered to their time slot of 40 minutes. Next in line was the Nirajani Akhara with a live pipe band in attendance. At the head of the bandwagon was the akhara chief posted atop an elevated seat over an improvised motorized ‘rath’ (chariot). Juna Akhara, regarded the most significant, arrived in a long procession that included the largest batch of Naga sadhus, who literally raced on the sandy banks to plunge into the waters. Brandishing glittering steel swords in their hands, they raised the traditional Hindu battle cry of “Har-Har Mahadev” that was dutifully echoed by the thousands who followed them. The Juna Akhara included a small group of foreigners and a band of women sadhus, who were equally zealous about taking the plunge in the biting cold.
For the Naga sadhus, the dip was heavenly. “Without a bath at the Sangam during Kumbh, I would have remained incomplete. The dip has given me a heavenly experience – after a gap of six years,” said Naga Baba Triveni Puri, as he emerged from the icy waters and smeared his naked body with ash. Quite comfortable with his long knotted hair touching his heels, he said: “The last time I cut my hair was in 1989 when I qualified to become a Naga sadhu on this very holy Sangam bank.”
Among the millions who trudged miles for the holy dip were not only the old and infirm, but also the physically challenged. Forty-year-old polio-hit Ram Iqbal Singh, who came all the way from Bihar, walked with his rickety wooden crutches right from the railway station. Living out of alms received from people, he confessed to having undertaken the journey without a penny in his pocket. “I just boarded a train and no one asked me for a ticket; I got free food at one of the many camps in the fair area. Now that I have had my dip, I will go back home,” said a satisfied Ram.