MAURITIUS, February 25, 2006: When the Siva temples in India echo with the chaste chants of “Om Namo Sivaih” and ardent devotees make a beeline at Sivalingams all over the country to offer their prayers on the occasion of Sivaratri, the beautiful island of Mauritius too resounds with the devotional notes of “Bam Bam Bhole.” Thousands of worshippers prefer to walk all the distance to Ganga Talao (Grand Bassin) to fetch the holy waters to offer to the Sivalingams in their homes. Ganga Talao is considered as sacred as the Holy Ganges in India.
Indians being the predominant population in Mauritius, all Indian festivals like Deepavali, Holi, Ganesh Chaturthi, Eid, Ugadi are celebrated with traditional gaiety and fervor, but Mahasivaratri is perhaps the biggest of all. It is a public holiday in Mauritius.
During a recent visit to Mauritius when we were planning our itinerary (since we had not taken the organized tour), our taxi driver, an Indian of course, speaking reasonably good Hindi said, “Ganga Talao is an absolute must for tourists, as it is the most sacred pilgrim place of Indians living in Mauritius.”
He was so right. It looked almost like the holy places (teerthas) in India – a lake surrounded by a temple complex, having beautiful Deities of all Lords – Laxmi Narayan, Lord Ganesha, Radha-Govind, Hanumanji – recorded bhajanas playing in the background and the priest putting tilak on the forehead of every visitor and also explaining its significance to the foreign tourists. The Deities were really beautiful, perhaps carried from India and installed there. Of these, the Jyotirlingam is the most special. It is reportedly the only Jyotirlingam outside India. Hence, the 13th one in the row of Jyotirlingas. Devotees often recount astounding stories about God’s manifestation in the Lingam. It is said a temple priest called Jhummun Giri Napal saw in his dream way back in 1887 angelic figures dancing around the lake singing praises to Lord Siva. He also dreamed that Grand Bassin was mysteriously flowing from the sacred Ganges water in India. Since then, the Grand Bassin began to be called Ganga Talao and Maha Sivaratri became the main festival for Hindus.
We were told hundreds of pilgrims, all dressed in white, walk long distances, some even barefoot, carrying the kanwar – wooden arches decked up with muslin paper, flowers, tinkling bells and small mirrors. They take pride in making the kanwars, using their best imagination and talent, decorating these nicely with countless mirrors and little bells. The festivities continue for three to four days. People also fast and stay awake on Siva’s great night, keeping a vigil in worship of the Lord.
Kanwar ritual is exactly similar to the one performed in India on the banks of the Holy Ganges. The kanwars symbolise submission to God and prayers for absolution. Ganga Talao or Grand Bassin is actually one of the natural lakes found higher up La Marie and Mare-aux-Vacoas, both man-made reservoirs.
Resting within the crater of an extinct volcano, Ganga Talao is soon going to have another attraction for the Siva worshippers of Mauritius – a 108-feet-high Mangal Mahadev statue. Those who have seen the giant Siva statue in Delhi, designed by the gifted designer and sculptor from Rajasthan, Mathuram Verma, will not be surprised to see that Mangal Mahadev project in Mauritius is also a product of Verma’s sculpting talent.
For the Maurituan Hindu, a pilgrimage to the volcanic sacred lake of Grand Bassin or Ganga Talao is a spiritual obligation that every family fulfils on Maha Sivaratri. Most worshippers start the day with a thorough cleaning and decoration of their houses. When they proceed to the sacred lake, singing bhajanas all along the way, people offer water or juice to them as is done in India to the pilgrims going for pilgrimages.
A school teacher, Vinesh, whom we met at Gabriela Island summed up the importance of Ganga Talao for us. “The water at Ganga Talao, that is inside the crater, communicates with the water of the holy Ganges of India.” That is why, perhaps, the Indians in Maurtius are keeping their traditional bonds with India so intact.