Vibrant traditional dress brings the Mayana Kollai’s fierce traditions to life
Story By: Padma Krishnan
All Photos By: Anne Petry
Shakti worship is found in ancient Tamil tradition, where the fierce form of the divine feminine was celebrated as Kotravai, the warrior Goddess. Over time, Kotravai became revered in the broader Hindu tradition, associated with forms such as Durga and Kali. Kali has become the main reference to the Warrior Goddess, with Her worship mentioned in classical Tamil literature. The 12th-century Chola court poet Jayamkondan, in his epic hymn Kalingathuparani, gives us a glimpse of Kali’s importance in prehistoric Tamil society. Writing to celebrate the victory of the Cholas over the Kalingas, Jayamkondan’s vivid imagery and poetic language guide us through Kali’s sacred dwelling in the forest, Her temple, and Her army of bhutas—supernatural beings who embody divine justice. Jayamkondan reflects on the profound themes of the battlefield, rather than glorifying violence: the consequences of human conflict, the transience of life, and the ultimate triumph of the Divine over chaos and evil, as symbolized by Kali and Her attendants.
Today, the ritual of Mayana Kollai celebrates the Goddess every year in Tamil Nadu and some parts of the bordering states of Karnataka and Andhra. Usually held on the new moon day after Mahasivaratri, it is observed as part of the festivities dedicated to Goddess Angala Parameswari. Mayana Kollai combines elements of village practices and ancient pre-Vedic rituals, similar to the masked trance performances of Kerala’s Theyyam and West Bengal’s Gomira, where local Deities are invoked through dramatic displays of dance and ecstatic trance.
I first saw the Mayana Kollai ritual in Pondicherry a few years ago. The month of Maasi (February-March) marks the onset of summer in this region, as well as the beginning of festivities dedicated to Shakti. Colorful posters and banners of Maa Kali in Her fearsome form adorn Amman (Devi) temples across Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry.
Mayana Kollai means “pillaging the cremation grounds.” It represents the symbolic victory of the Divine over death and darkness. Through this ritual, devotees invoke the Goddess’s power to transcend the fears of mortality and the cycle of life and death, embodying spiritual renewal and the ultimate triumph of light over chaos. Plundering the cremation ground is a metaphor for ascending above the forces of destruction, where the Goddess and Her followers celebrate the eternal victory of the soul and divine justice.
Myths and Traditions
Mayana Kollai is deeply connected to the worship of Angala Parameswari, a Goddess worshiped at Melmalayanur, whose name signifies Her supreme power as part of Siva. The events are shaped by several village myths, including the story of Parvati’s curse, where She wandered as an old woman in the cremation grounds until She regained Her divine form and liberated Siva from Brahma’s skull. Another tale portrays Parvati as a midwife who prevented the birth of a child destined to threaten the Gods, a narrative cherished by the transgender community, who view Angala Parameswari as a protector. Lastly, a story of Kali’s conquest in the cremation ground highlights Her role in overcoming a monster at Siva’s request, emphasizing the Goddess’s fierce protection over the realms of life and death.
Pillars of Mayana Kollai
In the heart of Tamil Nadu, Melmalayanur and Tiruvannamalai stand as sacred sites deeply entwined with the myths surrounding the ancient ritual of Mayana Kollai. It is here, in these hallowed grounds, that Siva and Shakti were said to have been liberated from their respective curses. Melmalayanur’s grand summer festival, the Massi Thiruvizha, is renowned for its vibrant celebrations, which span several days and include both firewalking and the fierce Mayana Kollai. Within this context, the full moon honors the Goddess’s creative energies, while the new moon reveres Her destructive power, symbolically enacted through the Mayana Kollai ritual. This dramatic re-enactment of Maa Kali’s victory over evil is a testament to Her eternal guardianship over Her devotees.
Tiruvannamalai, a site rich in spiritual lore, celebrates Mayana Kollai with great reverence. It is said that in this town, resting in the shadow of the sacred Arunachala mountain, Maa Parvati was freed from Sarasvati’s curse, thus intertwining the myths of these powerful Goddesses with the geography. Here I encountered Santosh, a young college student who has faithfully participated in the ritual for the past three years. He led me up the stone stairs to the small Kali temple nestled on the mountain’s foothills. There I had the privilege of meeting Shekhar Swami, the head priest. For decades, Swami has been at the helm of the Mayana Kollai ritual, a tradition passed down through his family. His small shrine, located near the revered Mulai Paal Theertham pond, houses a Kali idol of black-stone, adorned with threads, red and black, infused with potent mantras. These offerings protect devotees from malevolent forces. The fragrance of camphor, lemon and neem permeates the air, carrying with it the timeless essence of devotion.
Shekhar Swami greeted me with a gentle smile and piercing eyes. As we sat together, he shared his personal spiritual journey. From the age of sixteen, Swami had been guided by visions of Maa Kali, embarking on pilgrimages to the Himalayas and Varanasi in search of deeper truths. Eventually, he returned to his homeland, becoming the priest of the Kaliamman Temple. He spoke of his kuladevi, Angala Parameswari, and the numerous miracles that had blessed his life and the lives of his followers. The ritual of Mayana Kollai, he explained, is more than a symbolic celebration—it is a direct communion with the Divine Mother, a process of transformation in which ordinary devotees assume the power of the Goddess.
Transforming Devotees into Deities
The metamorphosis of devotees for Mayana Kollai is intense and beautiful. For the participants, this is a ritual of both body and spirit. They begin their purification three days before Mahasivaratri, abstaining from all non-vegetarian food and intoxicants. As the day approaches, they prepare themselves for the sacred task of embodying the Goddess, a process known as vesham katrathu in Tamil.
One with the Divine: a display of images that give insight into the care and detail that goes into the festival’s elaborate costuming
This transformation is a visual feast. Faces and bodies are painted in vivid colors—deep blues, vibrant reds, emerald greens, and black—symbolizing the fierce aspects of both Siva and Shakti. Their makeup is designed to awe. Protruding teeth, blood-streaked tongues, and heavily shadowed eyes transform the devotees into embodiments of Maa Kali. The costumes are equally magnificent, a labor of love and tradition. Heavy prosthetics, towering crowns, and layered skirts, all richly decorated, bring these divine beings to life. The textures shimmer with sacred energy, glinting under the sun or firelight as they move.
Shekhar Swami’s sister Lalita speaks with admiration about her brother’s transformation. “It’s as if he becomes someone else. When Maa Kali descends into his body, his eyes turn bloodshot, his face fierce. He doesn’t eat, doesn’t speak—he’s in another world.” The costumes they wear weigh many kilograms—crowns made of metal and jewels, glittering sarees, and anklets that chime with each step. Even after undergoing heart surgery, Shekhar Swami continues to don the full costume every year, driven by his devotion to the Goddess.
Folk-theater artists, skilled in creating larger-than-life characters, often assist in applying makeup, a practice passed down for generations. While some devotees own their costumes and props, others rent them from specialty vendors. The preparation takes hours. The completed transformation is a sight to behold. The ordinary becomes extraordinary as the devotees embody the fierce warrior Goddess and Her clan of protectors. The costumes and makeup, however, are only part of the shift. A spiritual transformation occurs too—tears, laughter, and a powerful connection to the Divine are evident as each participant assumes their sacred role.
Many of the devotees choose to embody local guardian Deities such as Pavadairyan or Kateri, who have their own unique place in Tamil folklore. These Deities, once worshiped in nearly every village, now find a place in this ritual, a reminder of the region’s rich heritage.
The Procession
As evening descends, the devotees, now fully transformed, make their way through the streets in a grand procession. The rhythmic drumming grows louder, each beat echoing in the hearts of those who watch and participate. The air is thick with the scent of lemon, turmeric and incense. Devotees dressed as Kali and Her attendants move with a fierce, primal energy ahead of the chariot carrying the Goddess. Heavy anklets jingle as they dance with abandon, oblivious to the weight of their costumes. The energy builds with every step as they approach the cremation grounds, the ritual’s climax.
For some, like Santosh, this is a family tradition, handed down through generations. For others, like Shekhar Swami, it’s the culmination of a year’s devotion, a rite in which they offer themselves fully to the Goddess. Onlookers place offerings at street corners, and babies are placed in the arms of the costumed Deities to receive blessings. As the procession nears its destination, the excitement builds, and the energy becomes palpable.
At the ritual’s peak, the procession enters the cremation grounds, where a final puja is performed. The dancers, still in a trance, scatter food—peanuts, mangoes and rice—as offerings to the spirits of the cremation ground and to secure a bountiful harvest. The act symbolizes the Goddess’s protection against malevolent forces and serves as a reminder of the agricultural roots of these ancient practices. The dancers, like Kali Herself, are believed to protect the devotees from malevolent spirits that may dwell in the cremation grounds.
The ritual of Mayana Kollai is a living tradition that connects ancient myths with modern devotion. It has evolved over the years, with certain practices fading while others remain fiercely alive in the hearts of devotees. At its core, Mayana Kollai is a celebration of the divine feminine in Her most potent form—fierce, protective, and transformative.
As the ritual comes to a close, the devotees shed their divine personas, and the heavy costumes and crowns are carefully stored, wrapped in yellow cloth, awaiting next year’s reenactment. For Shekhar Swami and countless others, the power of Angala Parameswari is not confined to the temple or the cremation ground; She lives on in the hearts of Her devotees, guiding them through the trials of life and death.