Exploring the rich traditions of a beloved South Indian home celebration during Navaratri
By Vidya Mohan, Seattle
The festival of navaratri, or dussehra, is celebrated grandly every year during the Sharad or autumnal season. These ten days and their nine nights are a ritual of art, food and the Divine. Those originating from the Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh begin preparations several weeks in advance. Handcrafted dolls made of clay, papier-mâché and wood are brought out of attics to be set for display. Called bomma, bombe or golu in different languages, they are neatly arranged on stepped tiers, and friends and acquaintances are invited to view them.
They depict a wide variety of scenes from history and scripture. Backgrounds are painted, staged with colorful decor and carefully lit to evoke a celestial atmosphere. There are also nostalgic, lively scenes of everyday people—farmers, teachers, householders, merchants and priests—with children at play adding warmth and humor.
Alongside a kumbha—a pot filled with water or grains, spices and coins—the golus are arranged for formal worship on the day of Mahalaya Amavasya, the new moon. For the ten days that follow, they are honored and pampered as esteemed guests with ritualized food offerings called prasadam, flowers and fragrant incense.
While the exact origins of this festival are unclear, it likely took shape during the 14th century. Golu dolls were originally crafted in clay by artisans in and around Kanchipuram and neighboring districts. They later came to include papier-mâché, wooden and marble cousins from other states in India.
The clay-making process incorporated the elements of air, fire, water, earth and space, with the final product honoring the pancha bhutha tattva that forms the basis of all living things. It serves as a reminder that we arise from these gross elements and to them our ephemeral bodies will eventually return.
While traditionalists might fume at the papier-mâché and resin-molded models that are becoming a common sight, they may be reassured by the growing popularity of this festival. The Navaratri Golu has transcended geographical boundaries with the rise in middle-class economics. Households in the US, Australia and the UK celebrate this tradition proudly.
The original artisans took inspiration for their creations from the murtis inside the temples and on the gopurams. Later, paintings from celebrated artists like Raja Ravi Varma influenced the designs. Over time, the complexity of the physical models and their stories grew into a joyful mix of time-honored traditions and subtle relevance to current affairs.
The golus are arranged in odd-numbered steps. The lowest steps are usually occupied by animals. These are followed by humans, whose discerning intelligence distinguishes them from animals. On the step above, you will find enlightened gurus who shared a path to attain Brahman, along with well-known social workers, artists and freedom fighters who lived their lives with more earthly purposes.
The subsequent steps are occupied by avatars, manifestations in which Divinities take anthropomorphic form and descend to overcome evil. Their stories are meant to reaffirm the Deities continued support and protection in our lives.
The top step is occupied by the main Deities: Durga, Lakshmi and Saraswati or Siva, Vishnu and Brahma. The space above represents the all-pervading Brahman, the formless, attributeless, supreme consciousness into which even these Deities dissolve. This arrangement reminds us to better ourselves and live each life with purpose, so we may eventually break the karmic cycle and merge with Divinity. When you sit down and stare up at the display in silence every year, you become aware of how much further you have to evolve.
Central to this display are a pair of wooden dolls called Pattada Gombe or Marapachi Bommai. Representing a primordial pair, they signify royalty, fidelity, fertility, balance and unity. They are often the first to be set on the steps and are said to oversee the arrangements that follow. Originally, this couple was handcrafted by artisans near Tirupati in India, from red sandalwood, silk-cotton wood or other local woods. Dressed according to local traditions or in bright finery, they are gifted to the bride as part of her trousseau. If they age well with proper care, they can command a fortune in art resales.
Honoring Adi-Shakti, the primordial creative energy of the universe, Navaratri is also a season for the arts. If you paint, dance, sing, cook or craft well, you are invited to display your talent before the court of dolls. You can also offer your colorful kolams or rangolis, lip-smacking recipes and singing to the Goddesses every evening. Dressing up in fine makeup and silks is encouraged, as even this is considered one of the 64 arts or Chatushashti Kalas in the Indian tradition.
Nowadays when I visit peoples homes and partake of their elaborate catering, judicious holiday lighting, dramatically themed displays or private musical performances, I cant help but drift into nostalgia. I recall humble visits to homes in my neighborhood, where I would sing (off-key) and receive a simple dish of spiced lentils and beans.
On the last night of Navaratri, one doll is put to sleep before the arrangement is brought down and packed away the next day with considerable care. Some people even store their dolls in temperature-controlled environments!
Navaratri is not just about preserving a tradition, but also offers a break from the roughness of routine and the busyness of modern living. It encourages us to reflect on ourselves and relearn our real purpose as we retell stories from our tradition to our children. This precious season of Navaratri passes on more than just material things.